Edinburgh holds a special place in my heart as my entire family is from there. I have visited every year or so since I was born. I’ve seen the town in all seasons and done all the touristy and local things I can find. Each time I visit, Edinburgh keeps getting better and better. This passed winter I was able to take Paul there for the first time.

See + Do

This list can get extensive and there is something for everyone to do. Most sites are within walking or bus distance so a car is not needed. With all there is to do, I often recommend that first time visitors start with a double decker bus tour. They are the ultimate in tourist attraction but you can see a number of sites and decide which ones you want to check out and which ones to skip all in just a morning. The tour company pick up from Waverly Bridge and cost about $20. You’re able to hop on and off all day as well, making them a good choice for your day’s transport if you know there is something you want to see further outside of town.

Edinburgh Castle is likely your starting place. It sits in between the old and new towns and has spectacular views especially if you get a sunny day. The Castle is one of the oldest fortified locations in Europe with buildings dating back to the 12th century. There are many different spots to check out throughout the grounds including the National War Museum of Scotland, the National Was Memorial, the Honours of Scotland, and the Great Hall. I’d recommend picking up an audio tour at the entrance and wander through anything that sounds exciting. If you get a nice day, walk through Princes Street Gardens as you leave. There you will also find Scott Monument, a massive 200 ft tall Victorian Gothic Tower built in honor of Scottish author Sir Walter Scott. These days you are required to take a guided tour in order to climb it, but we had no issues being able to wander each leave for as long as we liked.

Another place well worth a visit is the National Museum of Scotland. The building features a new tower addition to the original 17th century hall with a stunning glass roof. The building alone is worth a look. There are exhibits on science, technology, history, and archaeology, many of which are interactive making it fun for adults and children alike. My dad, who was born in Edinburgh, visits the museum every time he is back in town. Entry is free and there are helpful greeters throughout the building who can suggest exhibits of interest. One thing to definitely check out is Dolly – the first successfully cloned mammal, who’s stuffed body is on display. There is also a roof top deck on the new side which provides lovely views of the surrounding area.

Right across the street is Greyfriars Kirk. On your way, stop by a rub the nose of Greyfriars Bobby – the statue of a dog who was said to have spent his days guarding the grave site of his owner after he died. The Kirkyard (Scottish for church yard) contains an old cemetery with many notable residents of Edinburgh from days past. The cemetery has regained popularity in recent years as it is said that J.K. Rowling got many of the names of her characters in Harry Potter from the headstones. These days it is hard to mention sites in Edinburgh without mentioning Harry Potter. You can make a tour of places associated with the books, though be warned, one cafe claims to be the “birthplace of the novels”; however, J.K. Rowling has clearly stated that she created the story long before going there and only occasionally wrote there (so skip the expensive tea and biscuits there). George Heriot’s School next to the churchyard is said to be the inspiration for Hogwarts, but please remember that it is an operating school so be respectful and do not try to enter the grounds. Nearby is Victoria Street, a row of shops down a curved street which many consider the original Diagon Alley.

There are numerous other museum to see throughout the town including the National Portrait Gallery, the Writer’s Museum, and the Surgeon’s Hall Museum. Surgeon’s Hall is a particular favor if you like the weird or macabre as it contains a vast collection of pathological specimens… and by that I mean diseased body parts in jars. If you enjoy the darker side of history, you can join a tour on the Royal Mile to go underground and see the vaults where many of the poor in the 17th century were forced to live. At night these become ghost tours and focus on the crimes of Burke and Hare, Edinburgh’s famous serial killers.

If you prefer to stay above ground, you can stop in the stunning St. Giles’ Cathedral and wander your way down to the Scottish Parliament building and Holyrood Palace. Holyrood is the Queen of England’s residence in Scotland and was the historic home of Mary Queen of Scots in the 16th century. If you want to go well above the city, climb Arthur’s Seat or wind your way up to Calton Hill.

Eat + Drink 

While Scotland is not exactly known for its cuisine, you can get some seriously good food in the town. You won’t have to venture far to find a pub that will provide a full Scottish breakfast or haggis. There are also plenty of cafes around for a cup of tea and a bite to eat. If you’re on a budget, avoid anything on the high street as those are around all the tourist attractions. I will say that just off the high street we stumbled on a cute little cafe called the Edinburgh Larder which served a delicious breakfast and a coffee shop by the name of the Milkman. However, in this area you can find chippies, which will allow you to get a cheap plate of fish and chips or a deep fried Mars bar (its as good and as sickening as it sounds).

If you are looking for something fancy, you can find high tea at the Balmoral Hotel, the Caledonian Hotel, or the Tower Restaurant. The Tower has a wonderful dinner menu with lovely views of the Castle. The Witchery is another beautiful spot for special meal. Otherwise, head over to George Street where you’ll find great restaurant like Cafe Andaluz which had true Spanish tapas. Nearby is a great little bar with amazing craft cocktails, called Bramble. Its almost impossible to find, set in a basement off Queen Street, but trust me, its worth it.

If you are looking for something on the cheaper find, there are plenty of take away options for any global cuisine you can think of. I highly recommend grabbing a curry. There are also a number of chain restaurants such as Nando’s or Pizza Express that are delicious especially after a long day of sightseeing.

Local Insights

Edinburgh has a large tourist industry, which means there are plenty of options on where to stay. If you are a first time visitor and you want to hit a lot of the hot spots, you can find endless hotel and Airbnb options around the Royal Mile to fit any budget. Most recently, we opted for a holiday apartment just off the high street that allowed us to walk to everything we wanted. It had a nice sized kitchen which allowed us to save a bit and get coffee and breakfast at home the morning. I would certainly recommend an apartment as affordable breakfast spots are not that common and many do not open until 8am or later.

Twice a year Edinburgh also gets VERY busy. In December, there is a Christmas market in Princes Street Gardens. Christmas markets seem to have spread throughout Europe and are not full of ride, carnival games, and overpriced trinkets. Many locals hate the Edinburgh Christmas market and with good reason – it make the area incredibly busy and full of light up rides, detracting from the beauty of the town. In August of each year is the Fringe Festival. It is the largest arts festival in the world with performances and exhibitions of all kinds. For 25 days, there are tons of street performers all around town and tickets to the stage shows are coveted for month. While it is a very cool festival and creates a great vibe in town, it raises the prices of accommodation and makes moving around really difficult. For that reason, I would avoid August in Edinburgh until you’re looking to book your accommodation and events at least a year in advance and are ok with the upcharge.

Have you visited or do you live in Edinburgh? We’d love to hear your thoughts and recommendations on what to see, do, eat, and drink in the comments!